Fashion in the Dark Ages

The Early Middle Ages, also known as the Dark Ages, or medieval times, refers to the period in European history after the fall of the Roman Empire. The phrase “Middle Ages” is used to describe Europe between the fall of Rome in 476 CE and the beginning of the Renaissance in the 14th century. When the Roman Empire fell in 400 CE, the once unified continent fell into chaos. The roads that had been constructed by the Romans fell into ruin and were plagued by highwaymen. Commerce and industry declined rapidly and governments lost revenue and were unable to maintain order or protect people, property and the trades.

Clothing in the ‘Dark Ages’

Many aspects of the clothing used in ancient Europe in the period remain unknown. What we call fashion today, did not exist during the Early Middle Ages and clothing styles were more perpetual and steady; they did not change as quickly as they did in the Late Middle Ages as people of a lower economic strata did not attempt to emulate the elite.

Clothing of Medieval Common People

Serfs, peasants, and low skilled workers wore a tunic made of cloth or leather and an over tunic in colder weather. Serfs went barefoot or wore sandals. Sumptuary laws placed restrictions on the types of clothing worn by the lower classes but they were rarely enforced. The poverty endured by the lower classes was enough to prevent them from attempting to imitate their betters. The use of ornate fabrics and embellishments increased with the wealth of the wearer. The clothing of the lower classes was usually made of woven wool. Garments were made out of fabrics woven at home.

Clothing of Wealthy People During The Middle Ages

The garments of the upper classes in the Dark Ages were made of finer fabrics. Wealthy people and the aristocracy took pride in their appearance by wearing attractive clothing. Just like today, the elite wore fine fabrics and ornamentation as status symbols. Their tunics were made of linen, which was lighter in weight than wool, and thus, more durable, comfortable and easy to launder. Linen was made from fibers of the flax plant. The difficulty in the production of linen meant that the material was more expensive to purchase and more time consuming to make than the wool worn by common serfs. Merchants, artisans, and other freemen wore higher quality garments than serfs, but not as fine as those worn by the nobility. Under and over tunics made of different colors created a stylish appearance. Hems, necklines, and sleeve edges were often decorated with borders to add interest and a beautiful clasp added panache to a plain cloak. Cloaks could be lined or edged in fur for warmth and also as a symbol of wealth and high status.

Medieval Men Fashion and Clothes

There was little difference between garments worn by men and women. Women's tunics were longer and resembled a gown. Men however, wore trousers under their tunics. This was a style that had differentiated the Northern European dress from how it was worn by the Romans. Straps made of leather or straw and wrapped around the lower leg protected both the leg and trouser from damage. The length of men’s tunics depended upon their occupation. Laborers wore shorter tunics than those who performed more refined tasks. 

Medieval Women Fashion and Clothes

The Women's Fashion of the early Middle Ages was still influenced by the classical styles of the Greek and Roman. The female clothing of the time consisted of two tunics, the under tunic being longer but less capacious than the other. Women also wore a long cloak over their clothing and closed shoes. The Church mandated simplicity in women's clothing, hairstyles, and accessories. Elegance began to be stated in women’s gowns. Women wore veils or head coverings for modesty as dictated by the Church. However, over the years, veils became more complicated and evolved into elaborate headdresses in the later Middle Ages. Outer wear for colder weather included capes and shawls. These were simple garments made of wool or leather. A cape could be tossed over the shoulder and held closed near the neckline with a brooch. 

A few illustrations that I made: